March - making our way north!

 

Farewell Runaway Bay

By early March, Liberty and her crew were ready to go. We’d checked everything was ship shape, we’d farewelled friends, the weather was looking good. We cast off our lines and cruised out of the marina on an overcast Wednesday, bypassing Tipplers and taking the Tiger Mullet channel up to Slipping Sands, anchoring near the sand cliffs for our first night. Next morning we continued up the Canaipa channel, crossing the “hump” (the shallowest spot) at high tide and anchoring next to Canaipa Point for breakfast before continuing into Moreton Bay and over to Coochiemudlo Island.

“Coochie” is a new favourite, particularly when the breeze is from the north, as it is quite a protected spot. The locals are always friendly and there’s a lovely walk right around the island that we have enjoyed, with views across to Victoria Point from the south and Peel Island to the north. We’d arranged with Kirsty and Ben that they’d catch the ferry across to join us for a night, and bought prawns for lunch and roast lamb for dinner so that they felt very welcome :-) We had coffee and visited the local art galleries in the morning, then enjoyed a couple of drinks at the Beach Bar in the afternoon. It was overcast and a bit drizzly, but that didn’t stop us enjoying a very pleasant day and night.

After lunch the next day, the captain took our guests ashore to catch the ferry back to the mainland and we continued cruising, retracing our journey as far as Blakesleys anchorage where we met up with Simon and Jenny, who’d cruised up in “Moor good times” to join us for a very pleasant night of wining and dining aboard Liberty. Conditions were perfect, with north Stradbroke island protecting us from the south easterly breeze and light clouds making for a beautiful sunset. On Sunday morning we both raised our anchors and cruised around to Deanbilla Bay, at Dunwich, anchoring not far from the ferry terminal. We took the dinghy ashore for lunch at the Straddie Brewery, with lovely views out to the water. Next morning we farewelled our friends, then enjoyed a lazy day with just a brief trip to shore to get a couple of supplies from the friendly local butcher and the supermarket, taking the time for a lovely coffee back at the brewery. 

Monday night was a “bouncy” night on anchor, with stronger winds and less protection than we’d hoped for! On Tuesday, we took the dinghy around to One Mile jetty and tied up at the Little Ships club, catching the bus across north Stradbroke, enjoying the views of the ocean from Point Lookout and doing the gorge walks before taking the bus back to Cylinder beach for lunch at the pub. There were spectacular views across to Moreton Island and we could well understand why this was such a popular spot, even on a weekday. We returned to Liberty in the afternoon, raising the anchor and cruising over to the “Lazarette” on the north side of Peel Island, out of the prevailing wind, enjoying a very still night. From there you can see some buildings from the former leper colony, but going ashore is forbidden (unless you’re on an organised tour), so the binoculars came in very handy.

By Wednesday the winds had changed direction, so we headed off in the morning, rounding Peel Island and dropping anchor in Horseshoe Bay, on the south eastern side. We enjoyed a long beach walk and several swims over the course of a very lazy day. With such benign conditions, we were joined by many other boats! Next morning we moved again, to Manly Trailer Boat Club marina for three nights. We collected the car from Runaway Bay and spent the rest of the day on a few errands and shopping before a lovely night with Jenny and Simon. Next morning we drove the car to Brisbane, taking it to Kirsty and Ben’s and catching the river cat and bus back to the marina. The weather was stifling, and we looked forward to being back on anchor, but at least it gave us the chance to test out the air conditioning!

Manly boat harbour

On Sunday morning we dropped the lines and headed out, passing St Helena Island and crossing the Brisbane port shipping channel, making our way northward across Moreton Bay and dropping anchor in the Pumicestone Passage, behind Bribie Island. It was a warm and sunny day and, soon after anchoring, we put the dinghy in the water and headed to shore for a swim. Many boats passed us over the course of the day, heading our or returning from fishing or just enjoying a day on the water. As the sun set over the glasshouse mountains we enjoyed a quiet drink on the flybridge before Sunday night pizza and an early night. At 6am next morning the captain raised the anchor and we cruised out from behind the island, rounding the southern tip and heading north. The swell increased as we reached the ocean - something we had not experienced before in Liberty! It took the first mate most of the trip to reacquaint herself with the “motion of the ocean” and she was pleased to reached the entrance to the Mooloolah river! After negotiating a fast moving current with the help of a few nearby Boaties, we tied up at the Mooloolaba Marina in the rain. In the afternoon the sun came out and we walked across to check out the beach - too rough for the first mate but the captain had a quick dip. Later that evening we had drinks and dinner with Peter and Sal, enjoying a short honeymoon trip while they wait for their boat (currently in Paynesville) to be ready for the cruise north.

We woke to clear skies and a stiff breeze on Tuesday and went walking. First stop was the local coastguard, where a plaque recognises former members and their partners. We stopped to find the plaque to my great uncle, Les Clark, who had been a member for many years. It was lovely to see him and Aunty Betty recognised in this way. We meandered from there past many shops and cafes, returning along the seafront, where we watched two fishing vessels heading out to sea, rolling about in the swell, very glad it wasn’t us! It was too rough for a swim so we returned to Liberty for a shower and breakfast. Later we went to buy fish at the local supplier, choosing both flathead and snapper from the vast array. 

A lazy afternoon and quiet night followed. Weather and other appointments kept us in Mooloolaba for 5 days. We took some lovely long walks along the beach front, enjoyed lunch at the surf club with a window table view over the ocean, bought some supplies, had many swims and generally took it easy. On Saturday morning, with all chores done and the weather settled down beautifully, we dropped the lines at 6am and headed out over the (very benign) bar. With rowers, kayakers, fishers and the pilot boat also following the Mooloolah river, and a dredge at the entrance removing excess sand, the captain had his wits about him as we headed out.

The “motion of the ocean” was almost negligible as we headed along past the Sunshine Coast and the beautiful sand cliffs of Teewah Beach. We passed the lighthouse at Double Island Point and rounded the corner, slowing as we approached the very narrow entrance to the lagoon. With regularly shifting sands this is an unmarked entrance and it seems you go very close to shore before turning in! Luckily the sun was high in the sky and we could easily see the sand banks. The captain marked a track on his navigation system in case conditions were not so good when we are leaving and we had no trouble getting in, dropping anchor just before midday in the pristine and tranquil water. There were hordes of people on the beach - 4WDs lined the shore - it’s a popular spot with the locals! But as the day progressed the crowd diminished until there were only a few (illegal) campers left.

Double Island Point lagoon

Next morning we woke to a millpond. We had earmarked the lighthouse walk for the morning and left Liberty early in order to beat the heat. We took the dinghy to the most north-easterly point of the lagoon and walked across the sand, past numerous 4WDs and many families enjoying the water. We clambered around the rocks to where the surfers go, then followed the old horse and dray track up the hill, coming out at the lighthouse, where we enjoyed magnificent ocean views. We detoured past an old cemetery on our way back down the hill, reflecting on  how lonely and remote life would have been for the original lighthouse keepers and their families, particularly when the closest supplies came along the sand from Inskip Point and only when the conditions were favourable. Our walk was 6.6km long and took us just over an hour - we were glad to return for a refreshing swim and a lazy day!!

On Monday morning we did our exercises before breakfast and rewarded our effort with a swim. The high tide at the Wide Bay Bar was not until after midday, so we were not in any hurry. We raised the anchor just after breakfast and followed our track out of the lagoon, turning north and following the beautiful sand cliffs of Rainbow Beach towards Inskip Point.

There are waypoints that the local coastguard regularly updates to guide boats through the shifting sand of the very long bar area. After crossing the “mad mile” we were happy to reach flat water again, passing the Inskip Point ferry and turning into Pelican Bay to drop anchor and enjoy a placid afternoon.

With appointments in Hervey Bay the following Friday, we raised the anchor after exercises and a swim on Tuesday morning and turned north, following the (at times quite shallow) channels up through the Great Sandy Straits. We crossed "the hump" at high tide and dropped anchor near the South White Cliffs, a place we had visited and enjoyed regularly during our extended "Covid stay" in 2020. On Wednesday morning we continued north, stopping for a lovely lunch and swim at Kingfisher Resort, on Fraser Island. Later that afternoon, with the winds increasing and the boat rocking, we moved around to the lee side of Woody Island, looking over towards Hervey Bay. We woke on Thursday morning to stronger than predicted winds, cancelling our plans to walk to the Middle Bluff lighthouse, instead heading around the island and across to Hervey Bay, where we had booked a berth at the Great Sandy Straits marina. We were fortunate to arrive and tie up before the heavens opened!! The rest of the day was extremely wet so we didn't venture far off the boat.

Friday dawned clear and sunny, so we walked down to Urungan Pier, famous for its length out to the deep water. We visited the two fish co-ops, buying prawns at one and Coral Trout and local scallops at the other. We love the quality and variety of fish available at these venues and like to support both of them.

Unfortunately, a sudden change of plans has us leaving Liberty here for the next few months and heading back to Melbourne. We are very grateful that we have had such a lovely month and look forward to continuing our adventures north in August - which seems a very long way away from now, but we are confident the time will pass quickly and we will be back enjoying ourselves again.