The roundabout way “home”

 It’s been an “interesting” time in the last few months, with not everything going to plan but many opportunities coming our way. After leaving Liberty unexpectedly and in a hurry at the start of April we have spent more time in Melbourne than we intended, done a lot more air miles than we would ever wish to, sold a house, bought an apartment and marina berth, welcomed a new baby granddaughter, farewelled a parent and tried to take everything in our stride…

We returned to Hervey Bay and Liberty at the end of August, pleased to see she was ship shape and looking good. The lovely local seafood we had frozen just before our sudden departure was still good, and it was easy to restock the rest of the pantry while we had a car. There was some growth along the waterline and on the prop that was quickly removed with a fast trip through the water and little bit of spit and polish and a broom! We spent a couple of nights out at Moon Point, on the edge of K’gari, enjoying sunny days and a harvest moon and watching the whales glide by.

Returning to the Great Sandy Straits Marina we welcomed Jo-Anne and Ian aboard and set off again, with the first stop at Kingfisher (K’gari) for a couple of nights. We socialised, went walking along the shore and up to the lookout and generally enjoyed each others company. Then we headed out into Platypus Bay when the conditions were right, passing through Moon Point and anchoring just off Arch Cliffs for the night. We wandered along the shore, greeting campers at Bowarrady creek as we passed, and waving at the 4WDs zooming along the sand. Next morning we raised the anchor and put the radio on the same channel as the tourist boats and went whale watching! It was quite wonderful to see so many whales breaching, tail slapping and bottom feeding, and quite scary when they get close to the boat - they are huge!! After a couple of hours and many photos we returned to our previous anchorage for a lazy afternoon. We repeated the same fun the following morning, eventually heading back and anchoring behind Moon Point for lunch, then returning to the marina for the night, enjoying our final night with our guests at the Boat Club for a delicious dinner.

September can be a windy month, so our pattern for the next few weeks was a few days on anchor, a few days in the marina, depending on what the wind was doing. As we had a car, we were able to travel further and pick up supplies and other boating necessities from places further away, which was great from a boat restocking and maintenance perspective. We also took a couple of sightseeing trips to destinations like Point Vernon and River Mouth, enjoying the opportunity to explore the Hervey Bay area. The end of September saw us leaving the boat again, driving to Brisbane and then flying to Melbourne, returning by plane and without a car, ready for our next adventures.

By Monday 8th October, the boat was fully stocked with food (and grog!), water and fuel. We enjoyed farewell sundowners at the Boat Club, savouring the views over the marina and reflecting on our time in Hervey Bay. We untied the ropes on Tuesday morning, taking advantage of the tide to carry us out of the inlet and across Platypus Bay, anchoring north of Wathumba Creek for lunch and continuing up to Rooney Point, the most north westerly point of K’gari, to anchor for the night. The weather conditions appear to be perfect for our plans to travel so we want to make the most of it! And a lack of daylight saving is, for once, in our favour, as we left at 5:30am on Wednesday morning just as the sun peeked over the horizon to cruise our way north. Lady Elliot island was somewhere we hadn’t visited before and we arrived just after midday, securing one of the two public moorings there.

A turtle swam lazily by, popping his head up to greet us, and many migratory birds swooped and dived in the waves. In the afternoon we took the dinghy over to the shore but the steep sandy shore with breaking waves and the “private property” signs deterred us from venturing far! Steady, rolling swell, more noticeable at high tide, made this a less than ideal anchorage and, after a not very comfortable night we were happy to wake early the next morning, cast off the mooring and continue.

Our destination was a favourite amongst Boaties; Lady Musgrave Island. With reefs almost surrounding a large lagoon and a lovely little sand island, it is perfect in most weather conditions, but particularly so when the wind is benign. We cruised in through the sandy channel then, keeping a close watch for coral bommies, made our way across to the anchorage. There were many boats here already, so all the public moorings were taken, but we found a nice spot to drop the anchor, close enough to the coral for a lovely view and far enough from any neighbours for privacy. (The next morning, when a mooring became available, we very quickly jumped on it!) 

We spent the next three days in the lagoon, going for several walks around and across the lovely sandy cay, meandering between coral outcrops in the dinghy and relaxing in the balmy conditions. It was even warm enough for our first swim of the season! The wildlife was incredible, and as it is spring, huge numbers  of shearwaters, noddies and boobies were roosting onshore and many turtles were busy mating in the calm waters. We saw schools of reef fish and a few manta rays in the clear depths around us. We took the opportunity of such pristine conditions to try out the water maker and, while the generator was running, making bread and yoghurt, plus the heat of the generator ensured our showers were nice  and warm that night! We counted more than 20 boats, of every shape and size, enjoying Lady Musgrave as much as us, as well as campers onshore and a few guests at the new “Lady Musgrave HQ” floating hotel.

While internet coverage was patchy at best, the regular VMR broadcasts of the weather forecast kept us well informed. With wind increasing in the days to come, and some long distances to cover before our next destination, we decided to make a move at first light on Sunday. We cruised across the lagoon and through the channel, turning south once we had cleared the island and reef. The sea state was perfect, with less than a half meter swell and a cloudless sky, so we decided, with everything so favourable, that we would have one “big” day rather than two and head straight back south towards the Great Sandy Straits, forfeiting a night anchored in the Burnett River for calmer conditions once we arrived. It was the perfect day for us and we relaxed as we cruised along, each having a nap while the other kept watch, seeing nothing but the occasional boat in the distance. We arrived at Moon Point just as the sun set and anchored in the lee of a small island, happy to relax with pizzas for dinner and an early night.

Next morning we congratulated ourselves on our decision, as the wind forecast increased and we knew it would have been a “bumpy” day’s cruising down the coast. We raised the anchor and ventured further into the straits, stopping for breakfast and a walk ashore at Kingfisher Bay, marvelling at how the wind strengthened even in the short time we were ashore! Returning to Liberty, we raised the anchor again and continued south, looking for a quiet place with protection from the gusts. We anchored at South White Cliffs, a regular haunt of ours, where - even though the winds were quite strong - we knew we were in a good spot. A lazy day followed, as recompense for the long day on Sunday.

Tuesday morning we woke to calm conditions as the wind abated and turned to the south east. After doing our exercises and eating breakfast, we raised the anchor to continue south. We crossed “Sheridan flats”, the shallowest part of the channel, right on high tide, with plenty of water beneath the keel. Passing Stewart Island’s numerous holiday homes, we turned into Garry’s anchorage, named after an enterprising local Butchulla man, and dropped anchor alongside numerous others also seeking a quiet hidey hole. The wind continued high in the tree tops but we enjoyed calm and still conditions. Next morning we continued south, passing the very rough looking Wide Bay bar and Inskip Point (the vehicle ferry crossing to K’gari), into the inlet leading to Tin Can Bay. Mindful of the windy weather and wanting to restock and do some laundry, we’d booked a marina berth for a few days. 

The wind finally eased enough by the next Saturday, so we were up and off reasonably early, having breakfast just off Inskip Point while we waited for the tide to be right for crossing the Wide Bay Bar. The half hour journey through the bar is best done at “slack” tide when, even though there are still some breaking waves, conditions are at their best. Many others were cruising out too, some even taking the “short cut” through Fisherman’s Gutter - a quicker, but shallower, channel close to the shore. The cruise south was very smooth and we enjoyed relaxing for the day watching the world, and the occasional whale, go by. We arrived at Mooloolaba Marina just after 4:30pm and enjoyed a quiet night, early to bed after a long day. On Sunday Kirsty drove our car up to us and we had a late morning swim followed by fresh Mooloolaba prawns for lunch. She caught the train back to Brisbane in the late afternoon, handily leaving us transport for restocking. 

We also took the opportunity to catch up with family - we visited Danny and Joan in their retirement unit and had dinner with Jan and Shawn at a local Vietnamese restaurant. As a windy week was predicted, we drove the car down to Surfers Paradise for a couple of days, staying with Jenny and Simon and making plans for when we move into our new apartment and marina berth. Exciting times lie ahead! We returned to Mooloolaba on Friday, catching two trains and a bus and enjoying lunch at the Landsborough pub on the way. Gale force winds and spitting rain greeted us as we alighted from the bus, reminding us of why we are tied up in the marina and not at sea!!

Conditions eased over the weekend and by Monday the sea state was calm enough for us to slip out of the berth at first light, cruising out of the river and into the ocean as the sun came over the hill. There was some rolling swell but this settled as we cruised further south. We arrived at the Sandstone Point hotel jetty just before morning tea and enjoyed a walk around and a lazy day, with a drink at the pub in the late afternoon and an early night. The next morning, the captain gave the first mate her morning cuppa in bed, then untied and cruised out of the Pumicestone Channel, to cross Moreton Bay and enter the Brisbane River just after 10:30. We cruised past the busy port of Brisbane and up under the Gateway Bridge, dropping anchor just near Murrarie. The tide runs strongly in this part of the river, so getting the anchor to hold took quite a few tries, but eventually we settled in for a lazy afternoon, watching (and hearing) the planes readying for landing on the flight path above us! We took the dinghy to the boating hub and walked up to “Brew Dog” in the late afternoon, then settled on the flybridge to view the sunset over the city. 

Next morning we continued early, cruising through the city and dodging the River Cats and “Kitty Cats” ferrying commuters to work. There are numerous bridges crossing the winding river, with another one under construction, so it was good to get past it all and tie up at the West End boating hub for breakfast. We continued upstream, passing the final river cat at Queensland University, St Lucia, then around the river bends into calmer waters. The Koala Cruise to Fig Tree Pocket was the only moving vessel we saw. We cruised past many spectacular properties along the way; many had jetties, some of which had been destroyed in the floods and many of which were unoccupied by water craft. We followed the river as far as Bellbowrie, where we intended to anchor, but the lack of a way ashore, plus a big barge building a jetty on the other shore, deterred us, so we turned around and found a spot which was shallow enough and breezy enough and stopped for lunch. Later we continued down river, still admiring the large houses on the river banks, before anchoring for the night at Sherwood Reach, about 12 nautical miles upriver from the city. 

We were woken the next morning by rowing crews and coaches doing their early morning training. Kookaburras laughed from the trees as we completed our exercise routine and then, after breakfast, we raised the anchor and continued downstream. We didn’t travel far, anchoring at Indooroopilly Reach, just near the golf course and opposite Oxley Creek. We took the dinghy over and tied up in the creek, near a rowing club and playground, and walked up to the local Woolies to do some shopping. Returning to the boat, we relaxed for the rest of the day. Next morning we went to shore near the golf club and walked along the river walk around Long Pocket. New townhouses and apartments are springing up in what was once a natural wilderness, providing striking views over the river. After breakfast we continued cruising around the bend and anchored near Dutton Park recreation hub, opposite the Queensland university city cat stop. We walked across the bridge and met Kirsty for a pre dinner drink at Saint Lucy’s, a quirky cafe and bar in the uni grounds. We returned to the boat before dark for a quiet night aboard. 

Saturday morning is serious rowing training, and we were  woken at 5am surrounded by boats and crews, some unhappy that we were on “their” river! After a short walk along from Dutton Park we were happy to lift the anchor and return to the Indooroopilly boat ramp to pick up Kirsty, Ben, Tom and Lachlan for a day of boating. The boys had brought their fishing rods and were eager to cast a line out; unfortunately the only catch was Ben, with a catfish which was hastily thrown back! We all had a lovely day and we returned the tired family to the boat ramp in the afternoon, choosing to anchor at Indooroopilly Reach again and avoid the rowers in the morning. On Sunday the captain started the engines early for a trip downstream to West End recreation hub, where we tied up, ate breakfast and went for a nice stroll along the river path. Just after 10:00, Kirsty and family joined us again and we headed downstream, through the city, the boys counting bridges, cranes and ferries as we cruised along. We enjoyed lunch at the Powerhouse at New Farm park then continued as far as Hamilton, dropping the family there to catch the city cat home while we found an anchorage at Murrarie for our last night in the Brisbane River. 

Just after 6am, while the first mate enjoyed coffee in bed, the captain steered us down under the Gateway Bridge, past the loading docks and container terminals and out into Moreton Bay. Intermittent rain fell and a stiff breeze blew up choppy waves as we cruised across past St Helena and Peel Islands. We ate breakfast as we cruised along, reaching Blakesley’s anchorage, and North Stradbroke Island by morning tea, but as the breeze continued we did too, turning into the Canaipa channel and anchoring near Russell Island before lunch. We whiled away the afternoon as we waited for the tide to rise enough to comfortably cross “the hump”, (the shallowest part of the channel) before we dropped anchor again at “The Huts”, a peaceful spot near the shore. Another lazy night in followed, the weather a bit too chilly to tempt us to be outdoors!

We started Tuesday morning with our exercises, having to regroup when rain interrupted us. As we were meeting Yvonne and Andrew for a Melbourne Cup lunch at Tipplers, we wanted to make a healthy start to a very social day! We cruised across to South Stradbroke Island by mid morning and got ourselves dressed up and ready to party. A television had been set up in readiness and everyone was there to party! While we didn’t win the sweep, or the best-dressed competition, we had great fun. On Wednesday morning we redeemed ourselves with an 8.5km walk, along the shore to Couran Cove, through the closed and degrading resort and back along the beach. It’s sad to see Couran Cove crumbling away and we feel very sorry for those home owners fighting to restore the facility. We lazed the day away and had farewell drinks with Andrew and Yvonne as the sun went down. 

Next morning, after another walk to the ocean, we raised the anchor and cruised to Paradise Point, keen to check out our new marina berth! “Liberty” slid into position very easily and it certainly makes us keen to take possession of our apartment in January and really settle into Gold Coast life. 

We will continue cruising around on the Gold Coast for the next few weeks. There are many places we love to anchor and friends we want to catch up with before we head to Sydney and then Melbourne in December.