Following the coral coast

After a week of shivering in southern states, looking forward to the sunshine, we returned north to cloud and rain! The captain got caught in a shower on Tuesday on his way back to Liberty at the marina, the first mate’s plane nearly got diverted on Thursday due to thick fog covering Hamilton island. Our first night back together was spent at South Molle island, dodging the rain and staying warm inside. Next morning was still grey but very humid and we made our way to Airlie beach for a few necessities then started cruising north. Two hours later we anchored in Double Bay with no other boats in sight. It was so peaceful! The captain felt warm enough to venture to shore for a swim, the first mate was just happy to paddle in the water. We investigated an old hut on the shore which appears to be set up for visitors, with furniture, kitchen utensils, a well maintained fire pit and a few basics in a pantry. It’d be a lovely place to “get away from it all”.

On Saturday morning we continued cruising, at first through drizzle and showers, but gradually the clouds went and the weather returned to the beautiful sunshine we’d been waiting for. We left the Whitsundays behind and cruised through the Gloucester passage, dropping anchor just near the Cape Gloucester eco resort, a favourite of ours, where we enjoyed a delicious local seafood lunch. It was a bit cool for a dip in the pool, but when we returned to Liberty we could hear the music of a local band as we lazed the afternoon away. Later on we walked along the shore and the captain enjoyed another refreshing swim. 

The destination on Sunday morning was Bowen. We raised the anchor after breakfast and headed across Edgecumbe Bay, cruising in past the yacht club and marina to the fuel dock. While the captain filled the tanks with 1200 litres of diesel and topped up the water, the first mate wandered up to the seafood co-op and bought green prawns and reef fish! Happy with our purchases, we cruised out of the port of Bowen and around past the headland to anchor in Queens Bay for the afternoon, venturing ashore for a walk along the sand and a lovely swim. An early night followed. 

Having checked the weather forecast for the week, we knew that wind was coming from Wednesday afternoon, so early on Monday morning we continued north, past the long jetty and coal loaders at Abbot Point and following the headland of Cape Upstart to anchor in the bay for the night. We reached the peaceful anchorage, with holiday homes ashore only reachable by boat, before lunch, and went ashore later on for a walk along the sand. It’s always good to do a bit of exercise after sitting so long, although the cloudy water and many small creeks running into the bay put us off having a swim! Tuesday was a repeat of Monday: an early departure, but a longer cruising day, with Magnetic Island the chosen destination. We could have stopped at Cape Bowling Green, but the sandy point is very long and there are many shoals to navigate through, plus we’d stopped there on our first trip north and there are windy days to follow, so we kept going. We arrived at Horseshoe Bay in the late afternoon, dropped anchor amongst many other boats and ventured ashore for a walk along the sand.

We spent eight days in Horseshoe Bay, wandering or kayaking around the shoreline, buying a few essentials in the supermarket in Nellie Bay, catching the bus to Picnic Bay for lunch, visiting the little museum in the old school building and the Sunday markets on the foreshore, climbing up to The Forts perched high on the hill and hiking back to the beach, or just lazing about. The wind deterred venturing out of protected waters and a couple of drizzly days put us off travelling far off the boat! We always enjoy Magnetic Island and make it a “pit stop” whenever we are in the area.

On the following Wednesday, after the wind had dissipated, we raised the anchor and headed into Townsville, taking a berth at the Yacht Club Marina, looking across to Flinders Street on the other side of the Ross River. We booked in for a week, knowing that we could use the time to get supplies from the supermarket and fish co-op, as well as a few “essentials” like t-shirts, shorts and haircuts! Also, Kirsty was flying up for the weekend and we were looking forward to a visitor. She arrived late on Friday evening and on Saturday morning her friend Cas joined us and we cruised out to Magnetic Island for a night. The captain dropped the girls (and mum!) at Picnic Bay, where we sampled the drinks at the local brewery and enjoyed a seafood lunch before catching the bus across to Horseshoe Bay, where he had anchored. A lovely night of good food and conviviality ensued. Sunday morning is market day so while the girls had breakfast in a local cafe we walked the beach and strolled around the craft stalls. Later, returning to the boat, we cruised around the western side of the island for a leisurely lunch in a secluded bay before returning to the marina. That night we took Kirsty out to a birthday celebration dinner before she returned to Brisbane early on Monday morning. 

On Wednesday morning the captain untied the ropes as the sun rose and we cruised out of Townsville port, turning left and heading past the western side of Magnetic island. We rounded Great Palm island and anchored in North East Bay, a very secluded, rugged spot on the island. We walked along the shore in the afternoon; the only footprints in the sand. Another early start on Thursday saw us continuing north, past Curacoa and Fantome islands then west, between Orpheus and Pelorus islands and across to the eastern side of Hinchinbrook island. Our destination was Zoe Bay, a place we had often wanted to visit but the wind had always been against us. We anchored and after lunch we took the dingy ashore for the walk up to Zoe Falls. Our aim was to reach the top of the falls but, after a tricky creek crossing and rock scramble, the first mate balked at the knotted rope climb up a steep rock!! The rock pool at the base of the falls was quite beautiful but a bit chilly for a swim, so we returned to the boat. There was a constant swell wrapping around and into the bay, even though the wind was from the land, so we raised the anchor and continued along the eastern side of Hinchinbrook island, anchoring for the night in Missionary bay, at the top of the island.

On Friday morning, after exercises and breakfast, we raised the anchor and headed to Dunk Island. Conditions were perfect as we cruised along past all of the “Family” islands and we arrived at Brammo Bay before lunch. There were not many boats anchored there as we are a bit ahead of the nomadic “pod” of sailors making their way north, but there were lots of small craft and plenty of people on shore. We picked up the available mooring buoy not far off the shore. While the resort is still a wreck, new glamping tents have sprung up on the western shore and are due to be opened soon and the amenities block and barbecue area have had a makeover. Dunk island has always been a favourite anchorage of ours as the conditions are almost always lovely for anchoring and the walks through the rainforest are beautiful. It is also very close to the mainland, at Mission Beach, so it attracts plenty of day trippers. The next morning we got ourselves organised for the walk to the summit of Mount Kootaloo. The track is well marked and climbs steadily over the three kilometres to the top; the views across the water are spectacular. Unfortunately the camera did not make the journey with us, so there are no photos, but we have been here before so we have plenty of visual memories.

When we returned to the boat we dropped the mooring buoy to cruise to Mourilyan harbour. Cruising conditions have been excellent but wind is predicted in a couple of days so we want to be at our next destination well in advance. Mourilyan harbour is a well protected anchorage, entered through a small gap between mountain ranges. There is a sugar loading facility there and plenty of room for boats of all sizes. After a peaceful night we were up and ready at first light on Sunday morning, cruising out between the mountains and into the ocean just as the sun rose. Our destination was Fitzroy island, another favourite, where we can be protected from the south easterly blow and enjoy the walks and facilities onshore, within sight and easy reach of Cairns. We were lucky to get the closest mooring buoy to the beach for a boat this size, making it easy for us to get ashore by dinghy or kayak. As the next few days are forecast to be windy, we will enjoy our time at Fitzroy island before we explore more of the reefs and islands in the area for the next month.